Kei te tata te mākete hokohoko ataahua ki te ora ake?

BI mua i te mate urutā hou o te karauna, he "tipu nui" te hoko o ngā mea whakapaipai ataahua i roto i te mākete hokohoko haereere. Nā te whakangāwari haere o te mana whakahaere o te haereere tūruhi huri noa i te ao, te āhua nei kua tīmata te umanga tūruhi ki te whakaoranga. I roto i tētahi kauhau i tū i te wiki kua taha ake nei, he maha ngā tāngata o roto o te umanga i whakapuaki i ō rātou tumanakohanga mō te mākete hokohoko haereere ataahua o Āhia me te Moana-nui-a-Kiwa ā muri ake nei.

"E tino tumanako ana mātou ka mutu haere te mate urutā hou i roto i ngā tau e rua, e toru rānei. Ko te tikanga, ko te tūruhi ki waho tonu te umanga whakamutunga ka ora ake, engari e kitea ana hoki tōna angitu ā muri ake nei – he tokomaha kei te noho puku i te kāinga. Kāore e manawanui ngā tūruhi ki te puta atu i te whenua me te kopikopiko noa," te kī a Sunil Tuli, te heamana o te Asia Pacific Travel Retail Association (APTRA). "Ka kite tātou i tētahi whakaoranga kua roa e tatarihia ana mō te hokohoko tūruhi, ā, ka whai wāhi nui te rohe o Āhia-Moana ki te akiaki i taua whakaoranga."

I te taha o te huihuinga o te Duty Free World Association (TFWA) o Āhia me te Moana-nui-a-Kiwa i Singapore, i mea atu a Tuli: "Kaua e wareware ki ngā whai wāhitanga nui e tukuna ana e tēnei rohe, koinei te 'mīhini' o te mākete hokohoko haereere o te ao. Mena kei te whakaaro koe mō te hokohoko haereere. Kei hea te tīmatanga o te whakaoranga, ka taea e au te kī atu, i konei tonu, i raro i ō tātou waewae."

01 Te taha waitohu: ko te hokohoko haere te tūāpapa whakaaturanga pai rawa atu

Ehara i te mea ngaro te hiahia nui o ngā waitohu ataahua ki te hokohoko haereere. Kua angitu nui ngā kamupene ataahua nunui pērā i a L'Oreal, Estee Lauder, Shiseido me ētahi atu i roto i te hongere hokohoko haereere i ngā tau kua pahure ake nei. Hei tāpiri, kei te tere haere hoki ngā kamupene o muri mai pērā i a Kao me Pola Orbis i ā rātou mahere whakawhānui, me te whakataetae mō tētahi wāhanga o te pai. 

"Ina whakaarohia e te nuinga o ngā waitohu te whiriwhiri i ētahi tūāpapa hei whakaatu i ā rātou hua hou, e kore rawa e ngaro i a rātou ngā toa kore utu. Ka huihui mai ngā kaihoko mai i te ao katoa ki konei, ā, ka tere te rere o ngā mōhiohio hua ki te ao mā roto i a rātou. Waihoki, ka taea hoki e ngā kaihaerere te kimi i ngā ingoa nui katoa me ā rātou hua hou i roto i ngā toa kore utu. Ko te hongere hokohoko haere he tūāpapa matua mō te whai wāhitanga kore utu mō ngā kaihoko me ngā kaihoko." Anna Marchesini, Upoko o te Whakawhanaketanga Pakihi, tari rangahau mākete haere m1nd-set Say. 

E whakapono ana hoki a Marchesini, i roto i ngā hongere hokohoko haereere huri noa i te ao, he mea tika te rohe o Āhia-Moananui-a-Kiwa hei pokapū. "Koinei te mākete hokohoko haereere tino hihiri o te ao — ā, ko te mākete ataahua tino nui hoki — ā, he 'wāhanga pahū' mō ngā waitohu ataahua ki te pupuri i ngā whakaaturanga pahū-ake me te whakarewa i ngā hua hou." E kī ana ia.

I whakahuatia e ia te whakarewatanga a Shiseido o te SENSE Beauty Pop-up i te taunga rererangi o Changi i Singapore i te tau 2019 hei tauira. Ko te whāinga o te toa pakū-ake he "neke atu i te hokohoko tuku iho", mā te whakamahi i te hangarau mooni whakanuia (AR) hei whakauru i ngā hua ki ngā manuhiri i roto i te huarahi rumaki, hei āwhina i ngā waitohu kia toro atu ki ngā kaihoko. 

Nā ēnei nekehanga i tino angitu ai a Shiseido i roto i te hongere hokohoko haere i te tau 2019, me te ekenga o te kamupene ki te 102.2 piriona yen ($936.8 miriona) i roto i ngā hoko kupenga, ko te wā tuatahi tēnei i whiti ai āna hoko i te tohu 100 piriona yen. 

I kite anō a Melvin Broekaart, te Kaiwhakahaere Ao o te Hokohoko Haereere i te waitohu ataahua me te oranga o te iwi Tatimana, a Rituals, i te hiranga o te hongere hokohoko haereere hei whakaaturanga. "Ka tukuna e te hokohoko haereere ki ngā waitohu te huarahi ahurei ki te toro atu ki ngā kaihoko he wā, he moni (e mōhiotia ana ko ngā kaihoko e haereere ana ki tāwāhi he iti ake te kaha o te taha pūtea) ā, he nui ake te tūponotanga ki te hoko ohorere. Ka tukuna hoki e ngā toa kore takoha ngā hekenga motuhake me ngā huihuinga e wehewehe ana i a rātou mai i ētahi atu papaaho ipurangi me te tuimotu, kia kukume mai ai, kia uru atu ai hoki ngā waitohu ki ngā kaihoko hou." 

I kī anō a Broekaart ko ngā toa hokohoko haerere te hongere tuatahi e hono atu ai ngā kaihoko ki te waitohu Rituals."Mō Rituals, i mua i te whakatuwheratanga o ngā toa hokohoko ā-rohe, ka whiriwhiri mātou ki te tomo ki ngā mākete hou mā te hokohoko haereere hei waihanga i te mōhiotanga ki te waitohu. He hongere rautaki nui te hokohoko haereere mō te pakihi whānui a Rituals, ehara i te mea he kaiārahi hokohoko anake, engari he ao whānui hoki. He wāhi pa nui tēnei mō ngā kaihoko haereere ki te hono atu." 

Hei ngā tau torutoru e whai ake nei, e matapaetia ana e te kamupene he "tipu kaha" i roto i te mākete hokohoko haere i te rohe o Āhia-Moana-nui-a-Kiwa, e ai ki a Broekaart. 

Kei te whakamahere te kamupene ki te whakawhānui ake i tōna tūranga ki te pokapū hokohoko haere o Hainan, te Moutere o Hainan, me te tāpiri atu i ētahi atu toa e toru i tēnei tau. Hei tāpiri, kei te whakarite hoki rātou ki te uru atu ki te mākete hokohoko haere i te Tonga-mā-rāwhiti o Āhia.

02 Ngā Kaihoko: He nui ake te hiahia o te hunga e hokohoko ana i a rātou e haereere ana i te oranga o ia rā 

I te wā e haereere ana, he mea noa te wehe atu i te taunga rererangi me ngā taonga kore-taake, ahakoa he tiakarete, he taonga whakamaumahara, he pounamu waina pai, he hinu kakara rānei. Engari he aha rawa te mea e akiaki ana i ngā kaihaerere pukumahi ki te tū ki te hokohoko?Ki a Marchesini, he mārama te whakautu: He rerekē ngā whakaaro o te tangata i a rātou e haereere ana.

 "I a mātou e haereere ana, e whakaatu ana ngā kaihoko i te hiahia nui atu i te tikanga ki te tūhura i ngā hua hou, ki te tirotiro i ngā whata, ki te manaaki i a rātou anō, me te pārekareka ki te tukanga," tana kī.

 E ai ki tētahi rangahau i whakahaerehia e te kamupene i te hauwhā tuatahi o te tau 2022, 25% o ngā kaihoko ataahua me ngā mea whakapaipai i kī ko te mea e kukume ana i te hokohoko kore takoha ko te tirotiro i ngā whata me te kimi i ngā hua hou. 

I muri i te mate urutā Covid-19, i kite a Marchesini kei te piki haere te tokomaha o ngā tūruhi e utu ana i a rātou anō mā te "hoko me te hoko" i a rātou e haereere ana. "Kua hurihia e te mate urutā ngā tikanga noho o te tini tāngata, ā, kua nui ake te utu i a koe anō mō ​​te haerenga me te hokohoko. Hei tāpiri, ko ngā kaihoko (ina koa ko ngā wāhine) te ahua nei he pai ake ki te manaaki i a rātou anō i a rātou e haereere ana." 

I kitea anō hoki tētahi āhuatanga ōrite e Rituals. E whakapono ana te waitohu kua tino whai hua āna hua i te pakarutanga mai o te mate urutā, ā, kua puta ake te hiahia nui mō te oranga hauora i waenga i ngā kaihoko. 

"Mō ngā Rituals, ko te hokohoko haereere tētahi o ngā hongere tino whānui o te ao, e tae atu ai mātou ki tētahi rōpū nui o ngā tūruhi – inā koa ko te hunga i te wā 'muri i te mate urutā'. Ki te whakatauritea ki mua, e whakanuia ana e au ia wā, ā, e pai ana ki ahau te tukanga hokohoko." I kī anō ia, "I roto i te tukanga hoko i ā mātou hua, ehara i te mea ko te ahuareka o ngā tūruhi anake te take o te kawe mai o te hua i ngā huānga hauora ki roto i te hua. Ko ngā whakaaro i roto i ō rātou oranga me ō rātou haerenga ka ahu mai anō i te mahi 'hoko'." 

I kī atu anō a Marchesini, i roto i te pūrongo rangahau a tana kamupene, e 24% o te iwi i whakanui ake he wāhi hokohoko watea ake ngā toa kore takoha i ngā wāhi pēnei i ngā toa hokohoko nui. "E hoki ana tēnei ki te āhuatanga i kōrerotia e au i mua ake nei: ka taea e ngā kaihoko te kimi ngāwari i ngā waitohu nui o te ao katoa i te wāhi kotahi, kaua e haereere i roto i te toa hokohoko katoa. Ka penapena hoki i te wā mō rātou ki te tirotiro i ngā waitohu," te kī a Marchesini. 

I te kōrero a ngā kaihoko ataahua me ngā mea whakapaipai mō ngā take matua i akiaki i a rātou ki te hokohoko i a rātou e haereere ana, ko ngā penapena utu te mea nui rawa atu, ā, whai muri ko te whai wāhitanga. Ko ētahi atu āhuatanga ko te pono ki te waitohu, ngā whakaaturanga ataahua, me te rerekētanga. 

"Ina hoki, kei te pai te haere o te wāhanga ataahua ina tae mai te hunga haereere, engari ko te wero kei te heke iho o ngā reiti tahuritanga. Ko te tikanga me whai wāhi nui ngā wāhanga o roto i te toa ki te hopu i te aro o ngā manuhiri me te huri i aua manuhiri hei kaihoko," te kī a Marchesini. Kei roto i ēnei wāhanga ko ngā whakatairanga ātaahua, ngā kaihoko ngāwari ki te whakatata atu, me ngā whakaaturanga e kukume ana i te kanohi, ngā pānuitanga pānuitanga, ngā puranga, me ētahi atu.

 "Ka āta tuwhera te ao, ā, ka tīmata anō ngā mahi maha. Ā, i roto i tēnei taiao ōhanga e ora ake ana, he wāhanga makutu tēnei, arā, ko te hokohoko haereere." I te mutunga o te hui, i kī a Tuli, "I te taunga rererangi, kei te tatari te iwi mō ā rātou rerenga, me te pārekareka ki te tukanga whiriwhiri i a rātou e tirotiro ana i ngā hua ataahua hou mai i ngā ingoa nui o te ao, puta noa i te ao."

 I mau katoa ngā kaiuru i ngā tirohanga pai mō te mākete hokohoko ataahua o Āhia-Moana-nui-a-Kiwa mō te tau 2022. Tērā pea, e ai ki tā rātou, ko te tau 2022 te tau whakatau mō te whakaoranga ōhanga me te panonitanga i te rohe o Āhia-Moana-nui-a-Kiwa. E matapaetia ana ko te umanga ataahua te kaiārahi i muri i te whakaoranga o te hokohoko haere, ā, mā tēnei ka ārahi i te umanga ataahua i Āhia-Moana-nui-a-Kiwa.