'Kusuwa inzira yeTikTok'

Mamagazini erunako akambodzidzisa vaverengi mashandisiro epoda-poda kuvanza imwe nguva ichangoburwa iri kuchema.Asi zvino, imweTikTokmaitiro anotikurudzira kukumbundira iwo maziso ane mhute nemhino dzine mhuno."Kuchema makeup," zvinoita sekunge, yapinda.

Mune clip yakawana zvinodarika zviuru mazana mashanu nemazana manomwe ezviuru, mugadziri weBoston-based Zoe Kim Kenealy anopa chidzidzo "kune vasikana vasina kugadzikana" kuti uwane kutaridzika kwekuchema kutsva kunyangwe "kana usiri mumhepo yekuchema".

Anotanga neglobhu yegloss ye "iyo puffy, soft, lip", obva atsvaira mumvuri mutsvuku wakatenderedza maziso, uye pakupedzisira anoshanda.glitter eyelinerkumativi ose chiso chake nokuda kumwe "kupenya".“Ndinoda kuita sendinochema nguva dzose,” mumwe muoni akadaro.“Ndinonzwa zvakanaka zvikuru pashure pokunge ndachema,” akanyora kudaro mumwe.“Handizive kuti ishasha dzemaziso here kana kuti mhuno tsvuku.”

Kenealy, ane makore makumi maviri nematanhatu uye ane 119,000 vateveri veTikTok, akaudza Guardian kuti akafemerwa nemaitiro maviri ekumabvazuva eAsia: Douyin naUlzzang.Mhando mbiri idzi dzinosanganisira huwandu hwakakwana hwekutsvuka, kupenya uye kujekesa nzvimbo yepasi peziso kune yakazara kerubhi maitiro.

"Zvinokurudzirwa nekubwaira kweziso rako raunowana mushure mekuchema," akadaro Kenealy.Anosimbisa chitarisiko chingori chekunaka, kwete kusavimbika."Vanhu - kunyanya varume - vanga vachitaura nezve 'Amber Heard' pavhidhiyo yangu," akadaro, achireva mhomho yevateveri vaJohnny Depp TikTok vanotenda kuti aimbove mukadzi wake akachema-chema pamire nezve kushungurudzwa kwake.“Kupoda-poda kwandaisazopfeka kunze.Hazvina kuitirwa kunyengera munhu.”

Nhamo, kana kuti kuita kwayo, kuri kwese TikTok - pamwe nekuti iri pamusoro penyika chaiyo, zvakare.Mune 2021 Harvard Youth Poll, inopfuura hafu yevadiki vekuAmerica vakati vakanzwa “vakaora mwoyo, vakaora mwoyo, kana vasina tariro” mumazuva manomwe apfuura.

Uye munguva yehondo dzepasi rose, rusaruraganda rwakatekeshera, dambudziko remamiriro ekunze risingadzoreki uye kusurukirwa kwakawanda, muromo mutsvuku wakapfava hauchakwani.Pane kudaro, maitiro erunako akabuda kuti aenderane nekusagadzikana kwanhasi.Kune "dissociative pout", iyo iD yakadaidza kuti "lobotomy-chic, akafa-nemeso" hanzvadzi mudiki kune yazvino-passé miromo yedhadha yaive nema2010s pesvedzero mukudzipwa.Iwe unogona kuzviona muchidhori-sepamhepo chinomisikidzwa cheEuphoria's breakout waif Chloe Cherry, kana iyo yakaparadzana-yekunze kutarisa paOlivia Rodrigo's Instagram peji.

Chero kufamba kunogona kuve #SadGirlWalk kana iwe ukateerera Lana Del Rey uye wakatarisa uchishuvira kure.Iyo hashtag, ine pamusoro pe504,000 maonero, inoratidzira mavhidhiyo evakadzi vechidiki vanotaridzika vakaoma uku vachitora iced lattes uye vachiratidza zvipfeko zvavo."Rega ndicheme kuna Taylor Swift ndichifamba kusvika ndisisagone," mumwe mushandisi akataura pane yavo clip.

Fredrika Thelandersson, a postdoctoral muongorori mune zvenhau nekutaurirana zvidzidzo paSweden Lund University uye munyori webhuku idzva 21st Century Media uye Female Mental Health, anodzidza online tsika dzevasikana nenharaunda.

"Mumamiriro ezvinhu aripo, vanhu vane mukurumbira nemhando vanoda kuve nechokwadi, kuti varatidzike sechokwadi," akadaro."Imwe nzira yekuita izvi ndeyekuburitsa kuongororwa kana kuratidza kushungurudzika.Zvinobatsira chaizvo kuratidza imwe mhando yekusagadzikana. ”

Izvi zvinoyerera zvichidzika kuburikidza neTikTok, Thelandersson akatsanangura, achidzikisa zvinoreva mutauro wekurapa uye wepfungwa."Kuparadzana chiratidzo chePTSD, uye iko zvino kwave kutorwa seanoyevedza," akadaro."Izvi zvinotaura zvakawanda nezvekuti vanhu havasi kuita zvakanaka izvozvi uye vanoda rutsigiro, uye social media inova nzvimbo yavanogona kuwana izvo zvavasingazowana kubva kuhurongwa hwehutano."

Uye zvakadini kana mumwe munhu achinyepera kusuruvara kwake nemisodzi yemanyepo kana kuti chitarisiko chenhema?

"Pamwe kuri kuita manzwiro ekusuwa, asi pane nharaunda kana iwe ukaona kuti vamwe vanhu vanonzwa nenzira imwe cheteyo, uye irwo rudzi rwemunhu," Thelandersson akadaro."Unogona kuseka izvo zvakanyanya sezvaunoda, asi zvichiri zvine tariro neimwe nzira."

Gen Z haisi chizvarwa chekutanga kuwana oversharing's louche allure - Gen X zvidhori zvakaita saFiona Apple, Courtney Love uye mushakabvu Elizabeth Wurtzel vese vakaita mabasa mazviri muma90s.Munyori Emily Gould akamuita kuti atange mukutanga-aughts blogging boom, aine zvakanyanyisa zvinyorwa izvo zvaiwanzowira muchikamu cherudo-ku-kuvenga.Emo inoita seParamore uye My Chemical Romance inotonga machati emimhanzi ye2010s, ine mazwi ekureurura uye chitarisiko chakatenderedza che swoopy side bangs uye rima rinotyisa.

Audrey Wollen, munyori akagadzira izwi rekuti "Sad Girl Theory" muna 2014, akawana mukurumbira painternet kuburikidza nechikumbiro chake chekuti kusuruvara pachena inzira yepamutemo yekuratidzira kupokana nemadzitateguru (kunyangwe archetype yaWollen yemusikana anogara ari online Tumblr aiwanzo rehwa. kuve chena, mutete, anoyevedza uye akapfuma akazvimiririra).

Asi panguva ino kutenderedza, kusvika kukuru kweTikTok (vanoda kusvika bhiriyoni vashandisi munyika zana nemakumi mashanu) iri kubatsira maitiro acho kupararira zvisina kumboitika."Ini ndinofunga zvimwe zveizvi pwere dzinongove dzakawandisa kuwana internet," munyori werunako weInStyle Tamim Alnuweiri akadaro."Pandaive mudiki, ndakanamira musoro wangu nepahwindo ndikaita senge ndiri muvhidhiyo yemimhanzi kuchinaya, asi vhezheni yavo iyi iri pachena."

Kelly Cutrone, ngano yePR iyo akatanga kambani yePeople's Revolution uye akaonekwa paThe Hills, Guta neAmerica's Next Top Model, akambonyora bhuku rezano rebasa rinonzi Kana Uchifanira Kuchema, Enda Kunze.“Yakadzidzisa vanhu kubata nemanzwiro avo kubasa,” akadaro.“Zvinosuruvarisa kuti kusuruvara kungava muitiro.Asi ndine mwana ane makore 20, uye vana ivavo vose vakapfuura nomugehena [munguva yedenda racho].”

Cutrone akagadzira zita rake rekutsanangura vana vaanoona mumakirabhu nguva pfupi yadarika: "rudo rwehusiku".Funga nezve "zombie rima ngirozi vibes: vana vasina kupfeka hafu vanoita sevasina simba, neaya anoshamisa, anotarisa".

"Zvisikwa zvehusiku", Cutrone akawedzera, achibvisa Julia Fox, mudiwa wefashoni ane maziso edoe uyo anowanzoonekwa achifamba mumigwagwa yeNew York akapfeka majean akadzikira, maBalenciaga bodysuits, uye akaturikidzana eeyeliner nhema."Ane vasikana vanouya kuzviitiko zvangu dzimwe nguva uye ndivo vasikana," akadaro Cutrone."Ivo vasikana havasisiri Twiggy: ndiElvira."