'Chisoni ndi chizolowezi cha TikTok'

Magazini a kukongola adaphunzitsa owerenga momwe angagwiritsire ntchito zodzoladzola kuti abise maliseche akulira posachedwapa. Koma tsopano, imodziTikTokKachitidwe kameneka kakutilimbikitsa kuvomereza maso ofiira ndi mphuno zofiirira. Zikuoneka kuti “zodzoladzola zolira” zalowa.

Mu kanema kamene kadakopedwa ndi anthu opitilira 507,000, Zoe Kim Kenealy, wopanga zinthu ku Boston, akupereka maphunziro "kwa atsikana osakhazikika" kuti awoneke ngati akulira ngakhale "ngati simukufuna kulira".

Amayamba ndi utoto wonyezimira wa "milomo yotupa, yofewa", kenako amasuntha mthunzi wofiira kuzungulira maso, kenako amapakachokometsera cha glitternkhope yake yonse kuti "awoneke bwino". "Ndikufuna kuoneka ngati ndikulira bwino nthawi zonse," wowonera wina anati. "Ndimamva bwino kwambiri ndikamalira," analemba wina. "Sindingathe kudziwa ngati ndi maso kapena mphuno yofiira."

Kenealy, yemwe ali ndi zaka 26 ndipo ali ndi otsatira 119,000 a TikTok, adauza Guardian kuti adalimbikitsidwa ndi mafashoni awiri a zodzoladzola ku East Asia: Douyin ndi Ulzzang. Mitundu yonseyi imaphatikizapo blush yambiri, glitter ndi kuwonetsa malo omwe ali pansi pa maso kuti awoneke ngati akerubi.

“Zimalimbikitsidwa ndi kunyezimira kwa diso lanu mukamaliza kulira,” anatero Kenealy. Iye akugogomezera kuti mawonekedwewo ndi okongola chabe, osati osakhulupirika. “Anthu – makamaka amuna – akhala akunena kuti ‘Amber Heard’ pa kanema wanga,” iye anatero, ponena za gulu la mafani a Johnny Depp a TikTok omwe amakhulupirira kuti mkazi wake wakale anadandaula zabodza pa siteshoni ponena za nkhanza zomwe akunenedwa kuti anali nazo. “Ndi mawonekedwe odzola omwe sindingavale panja. Si cholinga chake ndi kunyenga aliyense.”

Mavuto, kapena momwe zinthu zilili, afalikira pa TikTok - mwina chifukwa chakuti afalikiranso padziko lonse lapansi. Mu kafukufuku wa achinyamata ku Harvard wa 2021, achinyamata aku America oposa theka adati adamva "kukhumudwa, kukhumudwa, kapena kusowa chiyembekezo" m'masiku asanu ndi awiri apitawa.

Ndipo mu nthawi ya nkhondo zapadziko lonse lapansi, kusankhana mitundu, vuto la nyengo losalamulirika komanso kusungulumwa kwakukulu, milomo yofiira sikokwanira. M'malo mwake, mafashoni okongola abwera kuti agwirizane ndi vuto la masiku ano. Pali "kutupa kwapadera", komwe iD idatcha "lobotomy-chic, maso akufa" mlongo wamng'ono wa milomo ya bakha yomwe tsopano ili ndi anthu omwe anali ndi mphamvu m'zaka za m'ma 2010. Mutha kuwona izi mu chithunzi cha pa intaneti chonga chidole cha Euphoria chotchedwa Chloe Cherry, kapena kuyang'ana kotalikirana patsamba la Instagram la Olivia Rodrigo.

Kuyenda kulikonse kungakhale #SadGirlWalk ngati mumvera Lana Del Rey ndikuyang'ana patali mofunitsitsa. Hashtag iyi, yokhala ndi mawonedwe opitilira 504,000, ili ndi makanema a atsikana akuwoneka achisoni pamene akuvala zovala zozizira ndikuwonetsa zovala zawo. "Ndiloleni ndilirire Taylor Swift pamene ndikuyenda mpaka nditalephera," wogwiritsa ntchito wina adapereka ndemanga pa kanema wawo.

Fredrika Thelandersson, wofufuza wa postdoctoral mu maphunziro a nkhani ndi kulumikizana ku Lund University ku Sweden komanso wolemba buku latsopano la 21st Century Media and Female Mental Health, amaphunzira zikhalidwe ndi madera a atsikana pa intaneti.

"Pakali pano, anthu otchuka ndi makampani amafuna kukhala ndi zenizeni, kuti azioneka ngati enieni," adatero. "Njira imodzi yochitira izi ndi kuulula matenda kapena kuwulula zoopsa. Ndikopindulitsa kuwonetsa mtundu wina wa kufooka."

Izi zikuyamba kuonekera mu TikTok, Thelandersson anafotokoza, kuchepetsa tanthauzo la chilankhulo chachipatala ndi chamaganizo. "Kudzipatula ndi chizindikiro cha PTSD, ndipo tsopano chikuonedwa ngati chokongola," adatero. "Izi zikunena zambiri za momwe anthu sakuchitira bwino pakadali pano ndipo akufunika thandizo, ndipo malo ochezera a pa Intaneti amakhala malo omwe angapeze zomwe sangapeze kuchokera ku njira yachikhalidwe yazaumoyo."

Ndipo bwanji ngati wina akunamizira chisoni chake ndi misozi yabodza kapena nkhope yabodza, yooneka ngati yakutali?

"Mwina ndikumva chisoni, koma pali mbali yogwirizana pamene muzindikira kuti anthu ena amamva chimodzimodzi, ndipo zimenezo ndi mtundu wa kukhala m'gulu la anthu ena," adatero Thelandersson. "Mutha kuseka zimenezo momwe mukufunira, koma zimakhalabe ndi chiyembekezo mwanjira ina."

Gen Z si m'badwo woyamba kupeza chikoka cha oversharing - anthu otchuka a Gen X monga Fiona Apple, Courtney Love ndi Elizabeth Wurtzel yemwe anamwalira onse adagwira ntchito m'zaka za m'ma 90. Wolemba Emily Gould adayamba kulemba nyimbo zake zoyambirira, ndi zolemba zolondola kwambiri zomwe nthawi zambiri zimagwera m'gulu la chikondi-to-date. Emo monga Paramore ndi My Chemical Romance zidalamulira machati a nyimbo a 2010, okhala ndi mawu ovomereza machimo komanso mawonekedwe ozungulira a goth a side bangs komanso zodzoladzola zakuda kwambiri.

Audrey Wollen, wolemba yemwe adayambitsa mawu akuti "Sad Girl Theory" mu 2014, adatchuka pa intaneti kudzera mu lingaliro lake lakuti kukhala wachisoni pagulu ndi njira yovomerezeka yotsutsa ulamuliro wa amuna (ngakhale kuti chitsanzo cha Wollen cha mtsikana wa Tumblr yemwe nthawi zambiri amakhala pa intaneti nthawi zambiri ankatanthauza kuti ndi woyera, woonda, wokongola mwachikhalidwe komanso wolemera payekha).

Koma nthawi ino, kuchuluka kwa ogwiritsa ntchito a TikTok (pafupifupi ogwiritsa ntchito biliyoni imodzi m'maiko 150) kukuthandiza kuti izi zifalikire kwambiri kuposa kale lonse. "Ndikuganiza kuti ena mwa awa ndi achinyamata omwe ali ndi mwayi wopeza intaneti yambiri," adatero wolemba nkhani zokongoletsa za InStyle, Tamim Alnuweiri. "Pamene ndinali wachinyamata, ndinkaika mutu wanga pawindo ndikudzinamiza kuti ndinali mu kanema wa nyimbo pamene mvula inali kugwa, koma mtundu wawo wa izi ndi wodziwika kwambiri."

Kelly Cutrone, katswiri wa PR yemwe adayambitsa kampani ya People's Revolution ndipo adawonekera pa The Hills, The City ndi America's Next Top Model, adalembapo buku la upangiri pantchito lotchedwa If You Have to Cry, Go Outside. "Linaphunzitsa anthu momwe angathanirane ndi malingaliro awo kuntchito," adatero. "Ndizomvetsa chisoni kuti chisoni chingakhale chizolowezi. Koma ndili ndi mwana wazaka 20, ndipo ana onsewa adakumana ndi vuto [panthawi ya mliriwu]."

Cutrone adapanga mawu akeake pofotokoza ana omwe amawaona m'makalabu posachedwapa: "chikondi chausiku". Taganizirani "mawonekedwe a angelo amdima a zombie: ana osavala bwino omwe amawoneka okongola, ndi maso achilendo awa."

Ndi "zolengedwa zausiku," Cutrone anawonjezera, akumukonda Julia Fox, mtsikana wokongola wa mafashoni yemwe nthawi zambiri amaoneka akuyendayenda m'misewu ya New York atavala mathalauza a jeans otsika, zovala za thupi za Balenciaga, ndi zophimba zakuda zokhuthala. "Ali ndi gulu la atsikana omwe amabwera ku zochitika zanga nthawi zina ndipo ndi atsikana okongola kwambiri," anatero Cutrone. "Atsikana okongola salinso Twiggy: ndi Elvira."