ʻO ke kaumaha kahi ʻano TikTok

Ua aʻo aku nā makasina nani i ka poʻe heluhelu pehea e hoʻohana ai i ka pena maka e hūnā i kahi sesh uē hou. Akā i kēia manawa, hoʻokahiTikTokPaipai ke au iā mākou e ʻapo i kēlā mau maka noe a me nā ihu ʻulaʻula. "ʻO ka hoʻonaninani uē," me he mea lā, ua komo mai nei.

Ma kahi wikiō i loaʻa ma mua o 507,000 mau makemake, hāʻawi ka mea hana ʻike ma Boston ʻo Zoe Kim Kenealy i kahi aʻo "no nā kaikamahine paʻa ʻole" e hoʻokō i ke ʻano o kahi uē hou ʻoiai "inā ʻaʻole ʻoe i ke ʻano e uē".

Hoʻomaka ʻo ia me kahi ʻāpana ʻālohilohi no "kēlā lehelehe puffy a palupalu", a laila e swipe i ke aka ʻulaʻula a puni nā maka, a laila hoʻopili hopeeyeliner ʻālohilohia puni kona helehelena no kekahi "ʻālohilohi". "Makemake au e like me aʻu e uē mau ana," wahi a kekahi mea nānā. "Manaʻo wau he nani loa ma hope o koʻu uē ʻana," kākau kekahi. "ʻAʻole hiki iaʻu ke ʻike inā he maka maka a he ihu ʻulaʻula paha."

ʻO Kenealy, he 26 ona makahiki a he 119,000 mau mea hahai ma TikTok, ua haʻi aku ʻo ia i ka Guardian ua hoʻoikaika ʻia ʻo ia e ʻelua mau ʻano hana hoʻonaninani ʻĀsia hikina: ʻo Douyin lāua ʻo Ulzzang. Hoʻokomo nā ʻano ʻelua i ka nui o ka blush, ka ʻālohilohi a me ka hoʻomālamalama ʻana i ka ʻāpana ma lalo o ka maka no kahi hopena cherubic holoʻokoʻa.

"Ua hoʻoulu ʻia e ka ʻālohilohi o kou maka āu e loaʻa ai ma hope o kou uē ʻana," wahi a Kenealy. Ua hoʻoikaika ʻo ia he ʻano nani wale nō ke ʻano, ʻaʻole he hoʻopunipuni. "Ua ʻōlelo ka poʻe - ʻo ka hapa nui o nā kāne - iā 'Amber Heard' ma kaʻu wikiō," wahi āna, e pili ana i ka lehulehu o nā mea pā o Johnny Depp TikTok e manaʻoʻiʻo nei ua uē hoʻopunipuni kāna wahine mua ma ke kū e pili ana i kāna hana ʻino. "He ʻano hoʻonaninani ia ʻaʻole pono iaʻu e ʻaʻahu ma waho. ʻAʻole ia he manaʻo e hoʻopunipuni i kekahi."

ʻO ke kaumaha, a i ʻole ka hana ʻana o ia mea, aia ma TikTok āpau - malia paha no ka mea aia ma ka honua maoli. Ma kahi noiʻi ʻōpio Harvard 2021, ua ʻoi aku ma mua o ka hapalua o nā ʻōpio ʻAmelika i ʻōlelo ua manaʻo lākou "ua kaumaha, kaumaha, a manaʻolana ʻole" i nā lā ʻehiku i hala.

A i loko o ke au o nā kaua honua, ka hoʻokae ʻili ākea, kahi pilikia aniau i kāohi ʻole ʻia a me ka mehameha nui, ʻaʻole lawa ka lehelehe ʻulaʻula maʻalahi. Akā, ua kū mai nā ʻano nani e hoʻokūkū i ka malaise o kēia lā. Aia ka "dissociative pout", ka mea a iD i kapa ai he kaikuahine ʻōpio "lobotomy-chic, dead-eyed" i nā lehelehe duck i hala i kēia manawa i loaʻa i nā mea hoʻohuli o 2010s i loko o kahi chokehold. Hiki iā ʻoe ke ʻike iā ia ma ke ʻano pūnaewele e like me ka pēpē o ka waif breakout ʻo Euphoria ʻo Chloe Cherry, a i ʻole ka nānā mamao ma ka ʻaoʻao Instagram a Olivia Rodrigo.

Hiki i kēlā me kēia hele wāwae ke lilo i #SadGirlWalk inā ʻoe e hoʻolohe iā Lana Del Rey a nānā me ke kuko i kahi mamao. ʻO ka hashtag, me nā nānā ʻana ma mua o 504,000, hōʻike i nā wikiō o nā wahine ʻōpio e nānā kaumaha ana i ka wā e lawe ana i nā lattes hau a hōʻike ana i ko lākou mau lole. "E ʻae mai iaʻu e uē iā Taylor Swift i koʻu hele wāwae ʻana a hiki i ka wā hiki ʻole iaʻu," wahi a kekahi mea hoʻohana ma kā lākou wikiō.

ʻO Fredrika Thelandersson, he mea noiʻi postdoctoral ma nā haʻawina pāpaho a me nā kamaʻilio ma ke Kulanui ʻo Lund ma Suetena a me ka mea kākau o ka puke hou ʻo 21st Century Media and Female Mental Health, e aʻo ana i nā moʻomeheu kaikamahine a me nā kaiāulu ma ka pūnaewele.

"I ke ʻano o kēia wā, makemake nā mea kaulana a me nā lama e loaʻa ka ʻoiaʻiʻo, e ʻike ʻia he ʻoiaʻiʻo," wahi āna. "ʻO kahi ala e hana ai i kēia, ʻo ia ka hōʻike ʻana i kahi hōʻailona a i ʻole ka hōʻike ʻana i kahi trauma. He mea waiwai maoli ka hōʻike ʻana i kekahi ʻano nāwaliwali."

Ke kahe nei kēia ma o TikTok, wahi a Thelandersson, e hoʻēmi ana i ke ʻano o ka ʻōlelo lapaʻau a me ka noʻonoʻo. "ʻO ka dissociation kahi hōʻailona o ka PTSD, a i kēia manawa ke kiʻi ʻia nei he aesthetic," wahi āna. "ʻŌlelo nui kēia e pili ana i ke ʻano o ka hana maikaʻi ʻole ʻana o ka poʻe i kēia manawa a pono ke kākoʻo, a lilo ka pāpili kaiapili i wahi e hiki ai iā lākou ke loaʻa i nā mea a lākou e loaʻa ʻole ai mai kahi ʻōnaehana mālama ola kuʻuna."

A pehea hoʻi inā e hoʻopunipuni ana kekahi i ko lākou kaumaha me nā waimaka hoʻopunipuni a i ʻole kahi hiʻohiʻona hoʻopunipuni a mamao aku?

"Malia paha he hana ia e hōʻike ana i nā manaʻo kaumaha, akā aia kahi ʻano hui ke ʻike ʻoe ua like ka manaʻo o nā poʻe ʻē aʻe, a he ʻano pili ia," wahi a Thelandersson. "Hiki iā ʻoe ke hoʻohenehene i kēlā e like me kou makemake, akā he ʻano manaʻolana nō naʻe ia ma kekahi ʻano."

ʻAʻole ʻo Gen Z ka hanauna mua i ʻike i ka hoʻowalewale ʻino o ka oversharing - ua hana nā kiʻi Gen X e like me Fiona Apple, Courtney Love a me Elizabeth Wurtzel i hala aku nei i nā ʻoihana mai ia mea i nā makahiki 90. Ua hoʻomaka ka mea kākau ʻo Emily Gould i kāna hoʻomaka ʻana i ka wā o ka blogging boom o nā makahiki mua, me nā komo ʻana i ʻoi aku ka pololei i hāʻule pinepine i ka māhele aloha-a-inaina. Ua lanakila nā hana Emo e like me Paramore a me My Chemical Romance i nā papa mele o 2010, me nā mele haʻi a me kahi hiʻohiʻona goth-adjacent o nā bangs swoopy side a me ka hoʻonaninani maka ʻeleʻele koʻikoʻi.

ʻO Audrey Wollen, ka mea kākau nāna i hoʻokumu i ka huaʻōlelo "Sad Girl Theory" i ka makahiki 2014, ua loaʻa iā ia ka kaulana ma ka pūnaewele ma o kāna noi ʻana he ʻano kūʻē kūpono ke kaumaha i ka lehulehu i ka patriarchy (ʻoiai ʻo ke ʻano o Wollen o ke kaikamahine Tumblr pūnaewele mau loa i manaʻo pinepine ʻia he keʻokeʻo, wiwi, nani maʻamau a waiwai kūʻokoʻa).

Akā i kēia manawa, ʻo ka hiki nui ʻana o TikTok (ʻaneʻane 1 biliona mau mea hoʻohana ma 150 mau ʻāina) ke kōkua nei i ka laha ʻana o ke au i kahi wikiwiki i ʻike ʻole ʻia. "Manaʻo wau ʻo kekahi o kēia he mau ʻōpio wale nō ka loaʻa ʻana o ka pūnaewele," wahi a ka mea kākau nani o InStyle ʻo Tamim Alnuweiri. "I koʻu wā ʻōpio, ua hoʻopili au i koʻu poʻo i ka puka makani a hoʻohālike aia wau i loko o kahi wikiō mele i ka wā e ua ana, akā ʻoi aku ka lehulehu o kā lākou mana o kēia."

ʻO Kelly Cutrone, ka moʻolelo PR nāna i hoʻokumu i ka hui ʻo People's Revolution a ʻike ʻia ma The Hills, The City a me America's Next Top Model, ua kākau ʻo ia i kahi puke ʻōlelo aʻoaʻo ʻoihana i kapa ʻia ʻo If You Have to Cry, Go Outside. "Ua aʻo ia i nā kānaka pehea e hana ai me ko lākou mau manaʻo ma ka wahi hana," wahi āna. "He mea kaumaha loa ia he ʻano kaumaha. Akā he 20 koʻu makahiki, a ua hele kēlā mau keiki a pau i loko o Gehena [i ka wā maʻi ahulau]."

Ua hana ʻo Cutrone i kāna huaʻōlelo ponoʻī e wehewehe i nā keiki āna i ʻike ai i nā kalapu i kēia mau lā: "nocturnal romance". E noʻonoʻo i nā "zombie dark angel vibes: nā keiki hapa ʻōlohelohe e nānā aku ana me ke ʻano ʻē, me kēia mau haka pono ʻole".

He "mau mea ola o ka pō" lākou, wahi a Cutrone, me ka hoʻohenehene ʻana iā Julia Fox, ke kaikamahine i aloha ʻia e nā maka ʻīlio wahine i ʻike pinepine ʻia e holoholo ana ma nā alanui o Nu Ioka me nā jeans ʻoki haʻahaʻa, nā lole kino Balenciaga, a me nā papa o ka eyeliner ʻeleʻele mānoanoa. "He hui kāna o nā kaikamahine e hele mai ana i kaʻu mau hanana i kekahi manawa a he mau kaikamahine "it" lākou," wahi a Cutrone. "ʻAʻole ʻo Twiggy hou nā kaikamahine "it": ʻo Elvira lākou."