'He momo TikTok te pouri'

I whakaakona e ngā maheni ataahua ngā kaipānui ki te whakamahi i te meikitanga hei huna i te tangi o te wahine. Engari ināianei, kotahiTikTokE akiaki ana te ia o ngā mahi toi i a tātou kia awhi i aua kanohi kohu me aua ihu whero. Te āhua nei kei te rongonui te "mekameka tangi".

I roto i tētahi riipene ataata kua piki ake i te 507,000 ngā pai, ka tukuna e te kaihanga ihirangi o Boston, a Zoe Kim Kenealy, tētahi akoranga "mō ngā kōtiro koretake" kia rite ki te tangi hou ahakoa "kāore koe i te hiahia ki te tangi".

Ka tīmata ia me te paninga o te atarangi whero ki "tērā ngutu pupuhi, ngawari", kātahi ka pania he atarangi whero ki ngā kanohi, ā, hei whakamutunga ka pania.eyeliner kanapahuri noa i tōna mata mō ētahi "kanapa". "E hiahia ana ahau kia rite ki te tangi ataahua i ngā wā katoa," te kōrero a tētahi kaimātakitaki. "He tino ataahua ahau i muri i taku tangi," te tuhituhi a tētahi atu. "Kāore au e mōhio mēnā ko ngā kamo kanohi, ko te ihu whero rānei."

I kōrero a Kenealy, e 26 tau te pakeke, ā, e 119,000 āna kaiwhaiwhai TikTok, ki te Guardian i ahu mai ia i ngā momo whakapaipai e rua o Āhia ki te rawhiti: ko Douyin me Ulzzang. He nui ngā momo whakapaipai whero, ngā kanapa me te whakamārama i te rohe i raro i ngā kanohi hei hanga i te āhua kanapa whānui.

"I ahu mai i te kanapa o ō kanohi i muri i tō tangi," te kī a Kenealy. E whakanui ana ia he āhua ataahua noa iho te āhua, ehara i te tinihanga. "Kua kōrero te iwi – ko te nuinga he tāne – mō 'Amber Heard' i runga i taku ataata," tana kī, e pā ana ki te tini o ngā kaiwhaiwhai TikTok a Johnny Depp e whakapono ana i tangi rūpahu tana wahine o mua i runga i te tūru mō tana tukinotanga. "He āhua whakapaipai kāore au e mau i waho. Ehara i te mea hei tinihanga i tetahi."

Kei runga i a TikTok te pouri, te mahi rānei i taua mea – nā te mea kei te ao tūturu hoki. I roto i te rangahau a Harvard Youth Poll i te tau 2021, neke atu i te haurua o ngā taiohi o Amerika i kī kua "pōuri, pouri, kore tumanako rānei" rātou i ngā rā e whitu kua pahure.

Ā, i tēnei wā o ngā pakanga ā-ao, te kaikiri e horapa ana, te raruraru āhuarangi kāore i te āraihia, me te mokemoke o te tini, kāore e ranea te ngutu whero noa iho. Engari, kua puta ake ngā momo ataahua hei whakataurite i te āhua kino o ēnei rā. Kei reira te "pout dissociative", i huaina e iD he tuahine "lobotomy-chic, dead-kanohi" ki ngā ngutu parera kua tawhito i mau i ngā kaiwhakatairanga o ngā tau 2010. Ka kitea tēnei i roto i te āhua ipurangi rite ki te tāre o te wahine ngaro o Euphoria, a Chloe Cherry, me te titiro tawhiti i runga i te whārangi Instagram a Olivia Rodrigo.

Ka taea e tetahi hikoi te #SadGirlWalk mēnā ka whakarongo koe ki a Lana Del Rey, ka titiro atu ki tawhiti me te hiahia. Ko te tohu, neke atu i te 504,000 ngā tirohanga, e whakaatu ana i ngā ataata o ngā wāhine taitamariki e ahua pouri ana i a rātou e kawe ana i ngā inu hukapapa me te whakaatu i ō rātou kākahu. "Tukua ahau kia tangi ki a Taylor Swift i a au e hikoi ana kia kore ra ano e taea e au," te kōrero a tētahi kaiwhakamahi i tā rātou riipene ataata.

E rangahau ana a Fredrika Thelandersson, he kairangahau whai tohu paerua mō ngā rangahau pāpāho me ngā whakawhitiwhiti kōrero i Te Whare Wānanga o Lund i Huitene, ā, ko ia te kaituhi o te pukapuka hou 21st Century Media and Female Mental Health, i ngā ahurea me ngā hapori kōtiro ipurangi.

"I tēnei ao, e hiahia ana ngā whetu rongonui me ngā waitohu kia pono, kia puta he āhua tūturu," tana kī. "Ko tētahi huarahi ki te mahi i tēnei ko te whakaatu i tētahi mate, te whakaatu rānei i tētahi whara. He tino whai hua te whakaatu i tētahi momo ngoikore."

E turuturu ana tēnei mā TikTok, te whakamārama a Thelandersson, e whakaiti ana i te tikanga o te reo hauora me te reo hinengaro. "He tohu te wehewehe i te whanaungatanga o te PTSD, ā, kei te tangohia inaianei hei āhuatanga ataahua," tana kī. "He nui ngā kōrero a tēnei mō te kore e pai te noho a te tangata i tēnei wā, me te hiahia tautoko, ā, ko te pāpāho pāpori te wāhi e kitea ai e rātou ngā mea kāore e taea e rātou te whiwhi mai i tētahi pūnaha hauora tuku iho."

Ā, mehemea kei te huna tetahi i tōna pouri ki ngā roimata rūpahu, ki te titiro rūpahu rānei ki tawhiti?

"He whakaaturanga pea i ngā kare ā-roto pouri, engari he āhuatanga hapori anō hoki ina kite koe kei te pērā anō ngā kare ā-roto o ētahi atu tāngata, ā, he momo noho tahi tēnā," te kī a Thelandersson. "Ka taea e koe te tawai i tēnā ki tāu e hiahia ana, engari he āhua tumanako tonu i tētahi ara."

Ehara i te mea ko te reanga Z te reanga tuatahi ki te kite i te ataahua o te tohatoha nui – ko ngā tino tangata o te reanga X pērā i a Fiona Apple, Courtney Love, me Elizabeth Wurtzel, i whai mahi i ngā tau 1990. I tīmata te kaituhi a Emily Gould i te puāwaitanga o te tuhi tuhinga i ngā tau tōmua o te taiohi, me ngā tuhinga tino pono i taka ki te wāhanga aroha-ki-te-kino. Ko ngā kaiwaiata Emo pērā i a Paramore me My Chemical Romance i kaha ake i ngā tūtohi waiata o te tau 2010, me ngā kupu whaki me te āhua goth e tata ana ki te taha o ngā pakau taha me te hanga kanohi pouri whakaharahara.

I rongonui a Audrey Wollen, te kaituhi nāna i tito te kupu "Sad Girl Theory" i te tau 2014, i runga i te ipurangi nā tana whakaaro he momo whakahē tika te pouri i te aroaro o te marea ki te mana o te tāne (ahakoa ko te tauira a Wollen o te kotiro Tumblr e noho tonu ana i runga ipurangi i te nuinga o te wā i kiia he mā, he kikokore, he ātaahua noa iho, he whai rawa motuhake).

Engari i tēnei wā, ko te whānuitanga o TikTok (tata ki te 1 piriona kaiwhakamahi i roto i te 150 whenua) kei te āwhina i te horapa o te ia i tētahi tere kāore i kitea i mua. "Ki taku whakaaro ko ētahi o ēnei he nui rawa te urunga atu a ngā taiohi ki te ipurangi," te kī a Tamim Alnuweiri, te kaituhi ataahua o InStyle. "I a au e taiohi ana, i whakapiri atu ahau i tōku mahunga ki te matapihi, ā, i whakaaro ahau kei roto ahau i tētahi riipene waiata i te wā e ua ana, engari ko tā rātou putanga o tēnei he mea whānui ake."

Ko Kelly Cutrone, te toa rongonui o te PR nāna i whakatū te kamupene People's Revolution, ā, i puta ki The Hills, The City me America's Next Top Model, i tuhi i tētahi pukapuka tohutohu mahi ko If You Have to Cry, Go Outside te ingoa. "I whakaakona te tangata ki te whakahaere i ō rātou kare ā-roto i te wāhi mahi," tana kī. "He tino pouri te whakaaro ka noho te pouri hei momo ahua. Engari he tamaiti tāku e 20 tau te pakeke, ā, i pāngia katoatia aua tamariki e te mate urutā."

Nā Cutrone i tito tana ake kupu hei whakaahua i ngā tamariki e kitea ana e ia i ngā karapu i ēnei rā tata nei: "ngā aroha o te pō". Whakaarohia "ngā wairua anahera pōuri o te hunga tūpāpaku: ngā tamariki e āhua tahanga ana, e titiro pōuri ana, me ēnei titiro rerekē, e titiro matatau ana".

"He "mea hanga o te pō" rātou, te tāpiri a Cutrone, me te whakakatakata i a Julia Fox, te wahine ataahua o te kākahu kanohi-pōuri e kitea pinepinetia ana e kopikopiko ana i ngā tiriti o New York i roto i ngā tarau poto, ngā kākahu tinana o Balenciaga, me ngā paparanga o te eyeliner pango matotoru. "He rōpū kōtiro āna e haere mai ana ki aku huihuinga i ētahi wā, ā, he tino kōtiro tino pai rātou," te kī a Cutrone. "Kāore ngā kōtiro tino pai i a Twiggy: ko ​​Elvira rātou."